»In which we ho-ho-ho with a twinkie in our eye

Chocolate-Espresso Twinkies and Hostess-Style Cupcakes, from the New York Times Magazine.

For the cakes:

Twinkie-style canoe pan for Twinkies or a muffin pan for Hostess-style cupcakes
Nonstick cooking spray
1 ¼ cups cake flour
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ cups sugar
3 large eggs
½ cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup strong coffee

For the filling:
8 ounces cream cheese
3 tablespoons heavy cream
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon ground espresso beans

For the frosting:
(for Hostess-style cupcakes):
1 ½ cups finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
½ cup heavy cream
White chocolate, optional.

1. Place a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a canoe pan or muffin pan with cooking spray.

2. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt 3 times. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on high speed for 15 seconds, until combined. On low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing until each is incorporated. Beat on high speed until light and fluffy, about 6 minutes. On the lowest speed, beat in 1/3 of the flour mixture. Beat in the buttermilk and vanilla, then another 1/3 of the flour mixture. Add the coffee, then the remaining flour.

3. Fill each mold halfway with batter and bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cake comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 30 minutes. Loosen the cakes from the edges with a sharp knife. Invert the pan and gently tap the bottom to release. Cool the cakes completely — Twinkies top-side down and cupcakes top-side up — on a wire rack.

4. Make the filling: In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, cream and vanilla until fluffy. With the mixer on low speed, gradually add the sugar and beat until combined. Add the espresso and beat until combined.

5. Transfer the filling to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch tip. For the Twinkies, insert the tip at 3 points on the bottom of the cakes and fill. For the cupcakes, insert the tip at the top center and fill.

6. If making Hostess-style cupcakes, prepare the frosting. Place the chocolate in a large bowl. In a small saucepan, scald the cream. Pour the cream over the chocolate. When the chocolate softens, whisk the mixture until smooth. Let the frosting cool, then whisk until fluffy. Spread over the cupcakes to cover the filling. If you choose, decorate with melted white chocolate. Makes 20 Twinkies and 24 Hostess-style cupcakes. Cake and frosting recipes adapted from the Hostess Twinkie Bake Set Recipes booklet by the Interstate Bakeries Corporation.

Filling adapted from “Joy of Cooking.”